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toilefront no strap   stays draftThere's a simpler method to pattern stays. Michelle uses the original tailor's diagram and Luca's explanation from Patterns of Fashion 5.

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donotfaint
Did you use the kraft paper as wall lining paper?
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clockwork_faerie
It's actually not kraft paper, it's thick, spongy paper sold in a home improvement store under the name "wall lining paper". It is meant to be installed underneath ordinary wallpaper in situations where the underlying wall is too textured to wallpaper directly over.
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pinkfouffy
Absolutely fantastic! What a beautiful shape you’ve achieved with this method! And thank you info about the wall lining paper- I will be giving that a while when I next attempt to make a pair of stays!
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backinastitch
Just tried this and I love the method! It's pretty much a perfect fit, I just need to make my CF slightly longer so I can fit my wooden busk into it and maybe take 1cm off the cm back so I can tight lace it (maybe take a bit off the top) But I'm so so so happy with the outcome!
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clockwork_faerie
So glad to hear it! Thanks so much for letting all of us know. Yay!
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talar101
Thank you SO MUCH for this!!! I've been looking for ages to make a custom stays pattern especially since I got back from Colonial Williamsburg!
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jmdeeley1966
this is my first video I have watched so far about drafting a corset pattern, the video makes it better as you see the pattern come together and the photos help to see how it looks at each fitting stage, I have a brought corset pattern but I know think I will go ahead and draft my own pattern.
Q; my only real question is will this work if I am working on a dummy as she is solid and not like a person, what do I do to combat it coming out to small for the dummy?
thank you for a great tutorial
Jason

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clockwork_faerie
Hello Jason!
I think it would work drafting for a dummy. You might add 1" to the waist measurement so that the shaping darts don't take away too much. The bust shape will be hard to achieve because the sides of a dummy bust aren't really compressible, so you may also want to add an inch or two to the bust and try to curve the front out further. Thank you!

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ckillianwood
I am new to making stays and would like to try drafting a pair using this method. I have the book and your article and video makes it a bit more sense. What is stumping me is to know the angle of arc. The arc controls much of how the draft is put together. In addition, the steps of placement of the measurements is not clear. I have my measurements and the basic grid set up. Not sure where to go next. I appreciate any direction.
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clockwork_faerie
Hello! Yes, the arc angle stumped me too. The important thing to notice is that it is not constant--i notice in historical drawings that the back waist curve is more shallow/a wider arc than the front, for example. I think it's best to mark out the measurements as right angled lines on the grid, divided front-back, then draw an arc (with its apex at the squared line) that will connect them. After that, measure along the new curved line and correct any measurement discrepancy.

I don't know for certain of course, but judging from how the rest of historical tailoring seems to be, I suspect that our distant ancestors weren't doing tiny decimal calculations and using huge compasses to draw these lines. Instead, they were taking rough measurements and drawing beautiful shapes to fit, then fine-tuning fit on the body.
All that to say, try a few things and see what happens! You are safe to experiment. I did this many failed ways before I came up with this way which works for me.

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maggiemorris

-How do you do know how to place the grain line on each pattern piece?
-Did you sew your pieces together with a seam allowance? Or are they somehow seamed together with no seam allowance?

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lisaneel
When drawing the arcs, where are you putting your bottom point? It is well out of the camera's frame.
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