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HomeArticlesBusinessDesignThe Art of Grading, Part 2

The Art of Grading, Part 2

icon smIn part 2, Mark walks us through grading a bra which has two size variants; bra cup size and band or girth size, for a more advanced grading lesson.

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allyshake  
  I am trying to make a bra for a 34D+, young woman who has only 5mm between the breasts at the BP level. She loves her natural cleavage and even with D+ cup can get away without a bra. The bras she does wear however are too small in the wing and cup but she likes the way this pushes her bust up even more than it naturally sits. My problem is how to make a cradle with such a small gap available. Here is some advice I have found http://www.herroom.com/breast-separation,333,30.html. I want to use a full/strapless style for her bra. Does this mean I need an underwire or should I work through a 'soft' design? With a wire style there is a minimum of about 2.4-3.2cm to allow for encased wire to fit when sewn in. It seams that a soft style may allow for a much narrower cradle but will it give sufficient support for a D+ cup sized breast? Can you see my dilemma? In the Grading 1 article you mention that the width of the cradle at CF should not change when grading up but can I narrow it?  
 
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mark_garbarczyk  
  Hi allyshake,
Please go to the forum section, Bras, for some answers to your questions. I do not have enough “word space” in the comment box for a full reply.
Corset hugs
Mark
 
 
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alexafaie  
  I'll have to check out the responses to any post you make in the forum as I myself have naturally very closely set boobs and want to make for myself one day. Prior to my most recent fitting where I finally got a truly well fitting bra, I was having issues because all the bras I had tried were too big and too high at the side for me. I had not changed band size at all, but I had gained volume. I'm now a UK 32F. Most of the bras I tried around that size were horrible because they seemed to assume that the bigger the volume, the more cup space and underwire was needed around the side next to the underarm. My 32DD bras still fitted fine at the side and the shape of the underwire was perfect, but there just wasn't enough cup towards the middle, so I'd pop out. Took ages (well over a year) to find a bra not too big at the sides for me, but with enough forward volume and volume to the centre of my chest and with a small gap centre front between the wires.  
 
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mark_garbarczyk  
  Hi Alexa Faie,
Have a look at the article Plus-Sized Bras on the Omega breast shape. The way you describe yourself seems to be a perfect example of this, so fitting a smaller underwire (no wire end in the armpit any more) and reshaping the cup to take your volume but fit the smaller underwire should work.
Corset Hugs
Mark
 
 
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madamenoire  
  mark ,again you have given us soooo much info and in such a detailed and informed way
your writing is brilliant and your knowledge is beyond wonderful
long may you write and reign here
jane
 
 
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manjasanders  
  Brilliant, thank you for such an interesting article, grading has always been something I wished to understand, and, learn. :)  
 
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