I'm hoping for a number 3 article about cupped corsets as there isn't one online yet... And I want to make one for a well endowed costumer... ;) Thanks so much for the most helpfull tips you've already given!
If her best fitting bra is not against her sternum, she is probably not wearing the right size bra. I had that problem forever, and had no idea that the underwire could or should fit against my sternum. I have similar measurements to the ones you described for her in the previous article (for me 43" bust, w/ 33" underbust and 32" waist), and I wear a UK 34HH (which is apparently about a Dx9), or sometimes a 32J. There are a number of websites (I've purchased from HerRoom, BreakoutBras, and BareNecessities ) that sell bras in upper-range sizes like that, and most major cities in the US have at least one specialty store (such as Intimacy). I'm not sure about France, but most of the bra-makers in that size range seem to be from France and Britain.
making sure the bust is big enough will make it possible for the corset to sit at the sternum but does not give it the support to stay there without straps. i think a bra underwire under the breast might add some of the suport needed to keep the corset against the sternum.
I just had a thought. And it certainly hasn't been tested out thoroughly or really researched very well so correct me if I'm wrong. But didn't they have separated breasts with a flat busk in between during the regency period? And then didn't they have diagonal boning pressed up against the breast to prevent the breast from moving sideways? So as an additional boning what if you used sprung steel just past the breasts, maybe before actually, angling them towards the busk. Forgive me if I didn't explain myself well. I loved this article it's super helpful. :)
I love these articles! It helped me understand what I was doing wrong for my first corset. But as I reread this one in particular, I think I see where the problem lies. When the additional gusset was added, it may have been placed incorrectly. From my research and experimenting into bra making, to make the center lay flat, the cup should open either from the center or in intermittent intervals (gussets) across the breast mass from the center 1" to 3" underbust region below the breast. The breast will then fall into the newly widened pocket (like when you spread your fingers around a baseball) and the center should sink in. I think if the toile were retried with either hypothesis, there could be success!