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La Fleur du Diable by Clémentine Bureau   La Fleur du Diable by Clémentine Bureau   La Fleur du Diable by Clémentine Bureau   La Fleur du Diable by Clémentine Bureau


La Fleur du Diable

Clémentine Bureau, France


The Design

"The Devil's Flower", both seductive and scary. That name almost says everything you need to know about my entry, really!

I have always been fascinated by insects and their strange beauty. To me, they represent a whole new universe, both magnificent and disturbing, and an infinite source of inspiration. So no need to say, this year's theme might be my favorite one yet!

The very first insect that popped into my mind as I learned about this year's theme was the one that gave its name to my entry, a creature I had spent hours upon hours looking at: the Devil's Flower mantis. What I like most about it, apart from its beauty, is the imagery it is tied to. In our mind, mantises are a perfect representation of the "femme fatale", a predatory form of feminity that I really love to explore. This is what sparkled the idea of my design. I wanted to create not only an outfit, but a whole character which would embody that vision: a deadly beauty, both alluring and scary, and definitely powerful!

I decided not to integrate the mantis into my design directly, though. I felt more like mixing a lot of elements that I like from many insects (shapes, exoskeletons, the infamous wasp waist, iridescence...), not one in particular. And without me really noticing, it ended up looking a lot like a scarab beetle (which is not that surprising when I look back at my Pinterest board)!

I got particularly inspired by Thierry Mugler's work, as he is one of my favorite designers. I just love the cohabitation between eccentricity, elegance and structure. I think he is the one who has best translated the strange elegance of insects into his work, and that is what I aspired to do. I think that the influence of his aesthetic is definitely visible in my work. I also looked at a lot of Iris van Herpen's creations, for their amazing structure and textures that remind me so much of insects' exoskeletons.

This was a very personal and stimulating project for me, which is the reason why I decided to model it myself. I got to turn into that character that I had imagined and built, and I had a lot of fun doing it! I think I will definitely try to find occasions to wear that dress and feel as powerful as I imagine my Fleur du Diable to be.


The Construction

I could very well have named this entry "The corseted dress that made me want to set myself on fire"! I decided to just dive into what this contest is all about: pushing my limits and going out of my comfort zone! It was tough, but incredibly satisfying and rewarding in the end, even if it is not perfect!

First, I decided to create my own pattern from scratch, because for me this was the best way to translate my inspiration. I went for a very complicated and intricate pattern, a corseted dress with an integrated neck corset and sleeves, with lots of horizontal pieces, steep curves and points, and fins inserted in seams pretty much everywhere! I think the pattern that I drafted is the main technical element of my design, and I hope I managed to show its construction in the video attached to my entry.

This piece required three fittings, and I have to say I kind of regretted my choice to model it myself when I had to do the fittings on my own!

As for fabrics, I opted for a black holographic vinyl and a black silk velvet (I just had to use silk for an Insect themed project!). These are two fabrics that really don't behave the same way at all, and I hate working with both... I just love to make my life complicated! I reinforced the outside layer with a layer of black coutil, to which I attached the bones so they would be invisible on the outside. The corset has a total of 24 bones, 12 on each side (a mix between flat steel and synthetic whalebone).

Overall, I am really happy with the result and how closely it matched my original idea. There are some flaws that frustrate me, but I now know how to avoid them in the future and I think I made a lot of progress facing the technical difficulties while drafting and sewing this piece!

More details about the project are available on my blog.


What was it like to compete this year? What would you say to someone who is on the fence about entering next year?

It was one of my favorite projects ever, one that felt very personal and rewarding, but also very stressful because I had very little time to complete it. But this competition is always a wonderful experience and a huge step in my learning curve, so everyone should definitely try it!

Claire Green
Wonderful interpretation, so much to look at & i love the fabric you chose!
Wow! I love everything about this! Amazing work :D
Those brave fabric choices really paid off, the shapes and layers are stunning while the colours when moving bring the work to life
Fantastic design and the shapes and panels are just stunning!
Even though your fabrics gave you a hard time they look so nice together. That black holographic vinyl is amazing. I’m glad you preserved
This is incredible! It's so good to hear of makers like yourself pushing themselves - trying different complicated patterning and using awkward fabrics. It's the only way to learn!
This design combines just everything I love!
A challenging pattern with adventurous shapes and dynamic lines, hipfins, a shoulder/neckpiece, shiny iridescent materials in contrast with more subdued materials... Such a great piece, Clémentine, really!!

Excellent! You captured beautiful and dangerous!
Very well done.

Dianna DiNoble
So much awesome here, I don't even know where to begin! I'm absolutely captivated by the back and the layering at the sides - and the fabric is stunning. Beautifully done!
Your blog story is amazing. All your inspiration ideas are really close to me. Construction, colors, materials, silhouette, makeup, posing, everything about this project is mind-blowing.
Thank you all so very much for your nice comments, this means a lot to me! ♥ Because of the rush I was in to finish this piece, I was left a bit frustrated about it, but I feel better about it now. This makes me want to keep pushing myself and my work to get better!
Clémentine, I always look forward to seeing your entry, you surprise and delight us every year with ideas that are more and more ambitious, and you've outdone yourself this time! The character is so striking, and the patterning and execution are marvellous! Thank you for giving us the pleasure of enjoying your work again!
I love your design especially the hip and rib layering, well done
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