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Voting has now closed. Congratulations to you all, and thank you everyone for entering, commenting, sharing and voting!

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Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts      Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts

 

Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts      Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts

 

Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts      Tudor Timbering by Phoebe Roberts

 

 

Tudor Timbering

Phoebe Roberts, UK (Phoebe Roberts)

IG: phoebedoescostume

 

The Design

Initially, this literal thinker struggled with the given theme: architecture. My early research failed to spark my imagination, these buildings were too modern (urgh), too obvious (god forbid), and too unlike the human body (how do I make this into a wearable costume??) I have always found colour, texture, and clothing already created as my main sources when designing. It was only when I hit upon my chosen style of architecture, half-timbered houses from the Tudor era, that I realised I could do exactly that. I fell straight away for the stark contrast of the black and white geometric patterns, which were often complemented by more subtle brickwork patterns. And the variations to be found on just the one building!

I decided I would also draw on the fashions of the era, with a modern twist that these patterns once deconstructed so lent themselves to. From my research imagery I drew multiple patterns and placed them on the different components of my costume. For the aptly named gable hood’s cousin the lettice cap, I used simple striped timbers; for the partlet, I used a chevron pattern; for my sleeves I used fishnet tights to represent diamond paned windows; for the stays I used a herringbone brickwork pattern, with vertical timbers for boning channels; and for the culottes I used a circle and grid pattern I had seen in various forms on several different buildings. And thus my design was born.

 

The Construction

As a general rule I never design anything that I cannot imagine how to construct. I knew from the beginning, therefore, that I would be using screen printing and appliquéd ribbons as the two techniques for creating my timbers and bricks. I enlarged my little research drawings to a scale sympathetic to the final garments, and made two silk screen artworks. Most of the decoration was applied before assemblage, the prints printed and the ribbons stitched, onto flat patterns pieces. My brickwork was supposed to be the most difficult to print, as it involved a three colour separation using one screen to create a repeat. However, it turned out to be the circle-grid pattern that was tricker to line up and print. Those vertical lines went a-wandering if you didn’t keep a watchful eye on them.

The trickiest sewing stage was, as usual, binding. I’m still getting to grips with binding using grosgrain ribbon rather than bias. This was also my first time attempting to bind solely by machine; many thanks to FR and Redthreaded for their help in this arena! I am also indebted to the Tudor Tailor, whose patterns and instruction I used as a basis for the stays, partlet and lettice cap.

The partlet and lettice cap both proved problematic, because the wool felt I made them from continued to shrink every time the steam iron went anywhere near it. But managed to compensate by reducing my seam allowances and recutting certain pieces.

 

What was it like to compete this year? What would you say to someone who is on the fence about entering next year?

So far entering this competition has done for me exactly what I wanted. It provided me with a project with a fixed deadline, and both a challenge and a direction in the form of the theme. While it can be so easy to make excuses to put off working on my own designs, this contest made sure I actually saw my idea through to completion. It also forced me out of my design comfort zone, to be more creative and original. As I worked on my entry I found I was just as excited to see my fellow competitors’ work as I was to see my own finished piece. The entries have inspired me every year since I discovered the FR Competition, and I’m pleased that I pushed myself to be counted among them for the first time this year. I recommend to others that they compete in future, I want to see more gorgeous work from everyone!

 

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galadriel
I love that you have taken such an old style of architecture and created something which looks so contemporary. It's gorgeous, congratulations !
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Wow! This is so visually striking. I love how you incorporated all the Tudor references but still made such a modern looking costume.
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Oh my god, the details and the work and you ARE AMAZING!!!!!!!! ! This is phenomenal!
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jema
The fabric printing is stunning, such a strong interpretation of the theme, fun, innovative and colourful too, I love it!
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royalblack
This is outstanding in so many ways!
I love how you combined graphic colours and patterns with such intriguing shapes and the construction looks perfect as well. Love it!!

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lyrisdesign
What a fantastic and creative interpretation of your inspiration! I particularly love that you created all of your patterned fabrics yourself, beautifully done.
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kitty mortensen
I love this, it is offensively gorgeous and oddly beautiful, In its complexity and balance between the many patterns and the colour on the body. It is amazing and I love it.
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elly_morris
I really really love your design. All your pattern work is really beautiful. It's so funky and fun and different. It's just brilliant.
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bernadettebanner
This is amazing! Everything from the color choice to the use of pattern to the styling seems so specially curated; this is one wild and fascinating look!
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chesla
OOOOH! I'm loving this whole outfit! I need it :) Love the colour palette and your choice of garments, they all fit together really well. I like seeing something different to skirts. Beautiful.
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First of all, I love a well done print matching... it is difficult and something not everybody is able to manage. You just nailed it. I love the combination. So bold and colorful and full of life. The pattern matching and the symmetry you achieved in the whole outfit is beautiful!. The detail that struck me somehow is how you managed to incorporate the lacing into the print... so genius.
I really love it <3

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I love how unique and whimsical your design is. You executed it flawlessly, fantastic work !
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Your outfit punches you in the face and demands to be noticed! The patterns you printed would stand out alone, but together they really draw the eye with the black lines all leading onto the brickwork corset. This is a super fun graphic interpretation, you must be delighted.
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junie22
I almost felt like I was walking down my High street! The black and white is most associated with Tudor buildings, but you have captured the warmth and texture of the bricks beautifully.
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theperfecttouchvictorian
There are so many perfectly amazing things about this entire ensemble! The inspiration is creative as is every step from design through executive. So well done!!
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paulay71
I could see this being worn in a contemporary ballet or as a tudor themed chess piece. It's all amazing work but I have a soft spot for that brickwork corset.
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sophia_k
The styling is perfect, it’s a great mix of avant-garde and classic influences.
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lcostigliolo
Your design is beautiful, I love the graphic details combined with the historical shapes. It looks wonderful, I adore it!
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marloes dadswell
What a wonderfully contemporary take on the Tudor style. Loving your use of bold colours, just striking!
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peacecat3
Such bold patterns! I love it!
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