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Madame la Marquise de Fontange by Dario Princiotta

 

Madame la Marquise de Fontange by Dario Princiotta

 

Madame la Marquise de Fontange by Dario Princiotta      Madame la Marquise de Fontange by Dario Princiotta

 

 

Madame la Marquise de Fontange

Dario Princiotta, Italy

IG: Dario_Princiotta

 

The Design

Deciding what to create for this year's competition was a struggle for me due to my indecision about where to find a proper inspiration.

Fortunately the inspiration came just in time two weeks ago after seeing the movie The Favourite. The costumes, designed by Sandy Powell, have a very sophisticated look as a result of an fantastic reinterpretation of the historical period in which the movie is set. They are mostly black and white and they’re made in a particular range of unconventional materials such as laser-cut vinyl. Most of them were crafted by Tirelli Costumi in Rome.

So I decided to design something inspired by the movie itself, and of course by late 17th and early 18th century stays, for the 2019 architecture theme. I thought that a boned bodice with a sharp and rigid silhouette would work beautifully.

Besides all this, the main real inspiration came from late 17th century castles plans plates, those black and white drawings, both geometrical and decorative, that have an extraordinary sense of balance and harmony. Among all the plans available I chose an early planimetry of the palace of Versailles, which I used to create a geometrical pattern to embellish the piece. As a consequence, I also focused on a person, the one that gave her name to my entry: the Marquise de Fontange, a mistress of Louis XIV. It would be romantic to think that I portrayed on the bodice the room where they consummated their love.

 

The Construction

The piece is cut and constructed as a late 17th century smooth-covered court bodice. It has a boned horsehair canvas foundation covered in one layer of cotton satin and three layers of ivory cotton organza and it’s lined using a thick pale pink satin. The decorative planimetry pattern is made of hand-cut pieces of faux suede connected to each other using silk flossing. The bodice has a front lacing fastening with hand worked eyelets and one-half of the top front is left unboned and pad stitched as a tailored lapel to expose one breast. After all, I’m a mistress, am I not?

 

What was it like to compete this year? What would you say to someone who is on the fence about entering next year?

It was stimulating! Just a lovely and friendly chance to have fun and overcome your limits!

 

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galadriel
I always love seeing your work, Dario. You are a true artist and a couturier. Congratulations on another stunning piece.
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clockwork_faerie
Wow! This is incredibly beautiful work. The first shot made me smile :) the shape is so great!
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This is one of my favorites... Such gorgeous work.
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I really love your design and the personality that comes through in your photos. This is beautiful and witty!
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kitty mortensen
This is stunning! I was immediately drawn by it and I absolutely love it
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royalblack
It's always a pleasure to see your work, as it stands out through it's sophisticated elegance.
The historical shape combined with graphic design elements looks striking and I especially love the back view with the little tails!

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jema
Oh Dario, you made me smile so much! I adore the Tirelli bag, the homage to the film (I can see "The Draughtsmans Contract" in there too :)) exquisite construction and the use of architectural plans is just inspired! I adore it x
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lyrisdesign
Beautiful work, and I love the creative planimetry embellishment.
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ggis
I do love your concept so much, such fragile and delicate look, beautiful!
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bernadettebanner
This is stunning work, wonderfully precise construction--and I love the historical influence! I want to see the whole gown now!
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Your work is always so unique, and the technique is spot on. I love it !
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Such character and so cheeky. The way you've staged your photos certainly tells a story! It really stands out, so different from anything else.
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It is beautiful mistress ;) No, I really love the idea behind it, working with the sketches and plans as an inspiration is genius and you gave it such a luscious vibe, which I love <3 The handmade eyelets, the little tails and the decoration are showing how much work and attention to detail went into these stays. A true piece of art! So well done! <3
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chesla
I love how striking this is. Such a lovely cheeky shape :) I am in awe! x
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elly_morris
This is stunning. I really enjoyed the film. I love how stripped back and elegant this design is. It's beautiful.
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lcostigliolo
I love this piece, it looks really light and yet it gives such an amazing shape. The back is gorgeous, bravo Dario!
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paulay71
Elegant and modern yet within a historical shape. I think the back is especially lovely.
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peacecat3
Beautiful! Horsehair canvas and padstitching, but with pink satin in stays! Very creative.
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theperfecttouchvictorian
Sophisticated and elegant!!
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marloes dadswell
Perfection! What a sensual design with the best eye for detail. Loving the references!
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