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HomeIndex of ArticlesHistorical corsetry1890s corset patterns1898 Glove Fitting Corset, or is it? Pt 3

1898 Glove Fitting Corset, or is it? Pt 3

611116_icon2Last month we drafted the pattern for this unusual design. This month, the step by step construction process, including how to sew some very tricky seams! Suitable for beginners.

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enken  
  Thank you for the in-depth look at the construction; the photos really cleared up some things for me! Do you have any tips for sewing the twill tape and boning channels over curved seams? I can imagine that I would get wrinkles all over the place if I tried!  
 
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lauraloft  
  Hi Enken, not sure if this helps any but I tacking stitich the tape or boning tube to the corset using small stitches which are close together, one row on each side just inside where I intend to machine stitch. I haven't got any wrinkles yet - well not on the corset ;-)  
 
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mmcnealy  
  Enken,
Probably the biggest tip I can give is to not pin in down before sewing, but to guide it with your fingers. Yes, it will take a bit longer, but you'll have more control over the finished product.

For the twill tape, I sewed the side that was on the inside of the curve first, then stretched the tape to follow the curve on the outside when I stitched it. Twill tape doesn't have stretch in the length, but it does have a bit of flex in the width.

For the boning channels, I just put pins in at the top, middle and end, just to keep the placement roughly where it should. Then as I sewed the corset, I would not sew it flat. If you see the picture where I'm sewing the casings over the bust curves... As I stitch, I'm pushing the boning casing into the curve of the fabric and curving the fabric into the shape I want. Its sort of like making a fabric sculpture instead of a flat garment. You're shaping the corset as you sew.
 
 
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