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Soft Bras, Part 3

icon-smInject some 1950s film noir femme fatale style into your underwear drawer as Mark continues his non-underwire bra making series with "Circle 'n' Spoke" bras.

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ladymideva  
  I can't wait to make this,I think I even have some faggoting tape in my stash.  
 
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micksmom2  
  OMG! i LOVE this!  
 
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sharons  
  Mark,
Another great article!
 
 
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zyurelaie  
  I came to this site for the corsets but this series have quickly become my favorite articles here. I understand these articles have a focus on vintage shape but I am curious about how this would change for a more rounded modern figure from a flat drafting perspective. Is there any large difference outside of trial and error to make them less pointy for ...say ... A modern figured burlesque costume? Much appreciated.  
 
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mark_garbarczyk  
  Hi zyurelaie,
To make the cup shapes less pointy just round off the P of B point of each cup part, remember to measure the seam lengths after rounding off and adjust if necessary.
You can also divide the single under bust dart into more darts / cup seams to give a rounded cup, if you look at the draft for the bullet bra cup the single dart was divided between four darts to give the rounded bullet shape. Think along similar lines.
Also a single over bust cup seam tends to give a “shed roof” shape, by adding an under bust seam / dart we can add roundness to the bottom of the cup.
I have never intended the articles to have a focus on vintage shape, I only include same vintage styles when I feel that they may be of interest from a technical point, such as the 1950’s Over wired strapless bras which introduced the idea of using piano wire for DIY wires in bras and foundation garments, or spiral stitching as a way to stiffen a cup.
We can all learn from history.
 
 
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