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Soft Bras, Part 4

icon-smMark helps us design a pattern for a supportive, torso-shaping, long line bra. Perfect for under a 50’s style full-circle skirted dress.

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alexafaie  
  I have a question about this. The gap between my breasts without a bra on is just 1.5cm. I'm not sure how it would be possible to separate them to 2.4cm without digging into the breast tissue. I still have an equilateral triangle like on the diagram, but the separation is far smaller.
Could this be why I find bras so hard to fit into? I always have loads of space at the sides next to my underarms, but can spill out in the middle (even if I go a cup size or two up). And the bit in the middle does seem to be too wide most of the time.
 
 
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jjelsewear  
  It sounds to me that you're just naturally "center heavy". Many women haven't realized that, just as there are pear-, apple-, hourglass- and other figure types, there are different breast types (center heavy, top heavy, bottom heavy, omega, wide set, etc). Try making the tutorial as written (of course adjusting for your 1.5 cm gap) but keep a note pad, extra fabric, scissors, a hand needle and thread nearby. You may have to slash and spread in one area, dart another and then re-draw the style lines. Take lots of notes of what helps to redistribute your breast mass to a pleasing shape and lift or what causes an unusual shape or pain. The solution may be one adjustment away

You can do it!!!!! :)
 
 
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allyshake  
  Hi Mark a friend who I am trying to make a bra for is 34D+, young and has only 5mm between the breasts at the BP level. She loves her natural cleavage and even with D+ cup can get away without a bra. The bras she does wear however are too small in the wing and cup but she likes the way this pushes her bust up even more than it naturally sits. My problem is how to make a cradle with such a small gap available. Here is some advice I have found http://www.herroom.com/breast-separation,333,30.html. Whilst this series is about soft bras I want to use a full/strapless style for her bra. Does this mean I need an underwire or should I work through a 'soft' design? With a wire style there is a minimum of about 2.4cm to allow for encased wire to fit when sewn in. It seams that a soft style may allow for a much narrower cradle but will it give sufficient support for a D+ cup sized breast? Can you see my dilemma?  
 
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