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Fitting the Bustline

The Corset, 1905, p 196 by Henri BoutetDo you struggle to get the correct fit across the bustline? Learn to get it right without squishing or gapping.

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enken  
  Great info on tackling such a tricky topic! I understand that a lot of 'engineering' goes into getting a larger bust sitting correctly. How about a small bust? I am a AA-A cup, and even wearing a soft-cup bra pretty much flattens everything out. :\ Is my only hope to heavily pad the bust area of a corset? Until now, I have only constructed underbust styles for precisely this reason - worn with a push-up bra to provide some help. I'd love to know how to tackle this!  
 
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thornmoon  
  Naw make the top of the corset end *just* above your Nip**s and wear your corset with a flouncy top a flouncy top. make sure you fit the bust area correctly or you won't have the proper shape. I'm a A-B cup but just barley. there is an artical that has a small busted maker too.

http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-patterns/1880s-corset-patterns/438-griswold-s-1883-corset
 
 
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lauraloft  
  Hi Enken,
There are various ways to enlarge the appearance bustline. A lot of which involve padding, I'm afraid. I will be covering this problem as part of the series. But padding is really quite easy once you get the hang of it - and very effective ;-)
 
 
sparklewren  
  Quote :
Often the squish factor of breasts is much more sensitive than, say, the hip area.


Yes, brilliant article! Again, I really agree with the notion of assessing each body and pattern for their mutual suitability. Not only do breasts vary in size and shape, they also vary in "squish" and present different challenges. I look forward to the next article :-)
 
 
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ivy2088  
  Great article! Thanks! I tried my toile on again after reading this and luckily it seems to fit! This is my first time trying to sew a corset and I dont have bones in it yet, but I am working on putting those in. There doesnt seem to be any squishage happening so far though, so thats good! Although I am slightly disappointed because it doesnt seem to lift them up any. (Will the bones help that at all?) I was wondering how you go about adding a kind of "push up" effect?
:)
~Holly
 
 
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cathyhay  
  Hi Holly, that's a great question!

I've tried to get in touch with Laura, but she doesn't seem to be replying. I know there is more information of fitting the bust in Isabelle Mekel's articles, and you may find some clues in Mark Garbarczyk's articles on push up bras - here's a link to th first one.

http://foundationsrevealed.com/bra-making/286-push-up-and-sling-bras

However, this is a subject that ought to have its own article - let me suggest it to the Editor!
 
 
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ivy2088  
  Thank you so much!! I got the bones all put in and I tried it on today for the first time! It basically had no support even at all. I will send you a picture.
Thank you,
~Holly
 
 
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firebirdcouture  
  This is a wonderful article. I will now be reworking my corset based on this. For some reason, I can get it right on everyone but me! ^_^ It's a little harder to eyeball things when on yourself as measurements, etc get adjusted as you're looking down. I need more mirrors...and mice. Sewing mice would be nice. ^_^  
 
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