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Corset making

Corsets with Cups, Part 2

icon-smBarbara guides us through the process of making a mock-up, and doing fittings and adjustments, for cupped corsets.

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  Thanks so much Barbara - I have been so excited about this article and it exceeds expectations! You are so clear in your instruction! Thank you x  
  Thank you for your lovely feedback!
I always hope that my articles are clear and easy to understand, so it's great to hear that it met your expectations. :)
  I've been looking forward to this article for a while. :D I've been kind of following along since the first one, except I'm working for a client with O cups! The previous article helped so much in drafting the pattern for her, and so far the results have been fantastic. I draped two cup styles from the best fitting bra she had, and made a wearable mockup for a cupped corset and a sort of longline demibra for wearing with corsets. The bra turned out to be a fantastic fit for her and she loves it, although it's not perfect yet. There are definitely some different fitting challenges both for augmented breasts and larger sizes, so we'll see how the mockup turns out! I'm starting on some cupped projects for myself as well, and the advice in these articles has been so helpful. THANK YOU!  
  Thank you for your wonderful feedback!
I'm really happy to hear that the article proved helpful for your commission and even inspired you to do some cupped projects for yourself. That's the best response I could hope for! :)
  Thank you so much for this - I am very much looking forward to making a cupped corset!

I have one query:

When you unpick the bra you keep the underwires in their casings and sew them onto the toile as is. Would it not be easier to sew on the casing without the wire inside?

Is this a technical decision, or is it a matter of not wasting the original underwire casing (as removing the wire might damage the casigns and require one to buy new casing)?

I would love to know your thoughts!
  Thanks a lot for your feedback!

You are right that it would be easier to sew the wire casings onto the toile without the wire inside, but I found the wire really helpful to find the right position for the wire casings.
With the wire inside the finished shape of the cups shows immediately and might prevent you from unpicking the seam again, in case you find out that the position of the wire is not ideal after sewing it onto the toile for the first time.
Does that make sense?

Also I couldn't avoid damaging the wire casing, when trying to remove the wire, so I just left it inside after a first attempt.
If you find it easier stitching the casings on without a wire, there is no reason against it though, in my opinion.
Just go with whatever works best for you. :)
Anya Kovacs  
  Aha, yes, I can see how that might be the case. Thanks for the reply - I shall look forward to experimenting!  
  wow. I only looked at the pictures and Ive already learned some new titbits (sp) :P
Omgehrd I just noticed the writer is from Royal Black ........... Hurrah for modern corsetry tutorials!
Thankyou so much Barbara laugh
Last edited on 13.04.2015 01:53 by Tracey Smith
  You are welcome and I'm glad to hear that this article was helpful for you! :)  
  Love this!! Thank you so much!! It is an excellent article!! I can't wait to try it out!! How do you take in the extra at the cup side with the moulded cup already sewn in? I hope that makes sense!  
  Thank you for the positive feedback!

I didn't take in the extra width on the sides of the cups on the toile anymore.
I just checked how much width to take away and applied the adjustment on the original corset. Does that make sense?
  Hello! I was wondering if you could tell me how wide the spiral boning is that you are using? I see where you mention the flat boning size but not the spiral, unless I am missing it. Thank you!  
  Of course!
I used 7mm wide spiral steel, as I do for all of my corsets.
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