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Corset making

Foundations Concealed

icon smSergei introduces the modern world of integrated corsetry, its origins, and the advantages of merging the corset and fashion layers.

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zoecorsets  
  Wonderful article, thank you very much ! Integrated corsetry was already on my to-do list, but this will definitily help the process!  
 
vanyanis  
  Absolutely wonderful article, thank you for sharing your hard won knowledge with us!
I can't wait to try some of the tips you've suggested.
 
 
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dazeoflaur  
  Yes yes and yes! So wonderful to read and so much information to digest.  
 
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ivyrose  
  Oh my, those are some gorgeous gowns! Thank you for sharing!  
 
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hollymaelee  
  Fab article! I am trying to integrate a corset into a wedding dress. I love the Dior style silhouette.

What fabric would you recommend for an integrated or even a separate corset for under wedding dress so that it is most invisible/smooth?
Bobbinet, sheer net- strong or light, single layer coutil? And what to use for the bone channels?

Also for the integrated corset, is it only attached at the upper edge to the outer garment?

Thank you in advance!
 
 
Sergei  
  Hi, Hollymaelee
Thanks for your enquiry
Well, the Dior silhouette calls for the corselet with cutaway hip-yoke, to which multi-layered petticoat is attached. It usually fastens with hooks and eyes at the centre back. The bust is held by cutaway cups, quilted for stiffness.
If your gown's neckline is strapless, then the foundation should have the same top edge contour and be attached to the gown at least along the top edge, otherwise the gown would require its own boning structure, which is a bit too much, don't you think? )) It is advisable to catch the corset and the dress at several places along the waist with thread loops for extra stability and storage convenience.
In case your dress is shouldered in anyway, then the foundation can be a separate piece.
As for the materials, I have worked with coutil and soft corset mesh. Can't say anything about bobbinet. I think sheer net will work in case your outer gown fabric is heavy, because you'll have to employ spiral or flat boning.
 
 
Sergei  
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