squarepicGrading is the process of adjusting a pattern by fixed amounts to fit a variety of standard sizes. Caroline shows us how!

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dannyjane
I'm afraid this article is no help to me at all. I concede that you have far more experience than I do, so maybe there's an answer that I'm unaware of. I'm not a professional and I do not take commissions. Moreover, I have no training or even basic understanding of CAD. What I do understand from your article is that your system will only work on people with symmetrical figures. I've never met one. Every body has irregularities. Hips, shoulders, bust lines are all L/R independent.

I have scoliosis. On Xray my spine doesn't just bend, but twists as well. I'm a nightmare to fit with shoulders, and hips uneven, one breast larger than the other, and a pronounced tummy. When you add all that to the prospect of a complex design the only way I can see to fit is by hand. I work with fine line pens, paper, pellon, rulers, French curves, human bodies, and my eye for size and proportion.

How does CAD allow for that?

Thank you for your time and consideration.

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Hi DannyJane - one thing I forgot to mention as well - the article is about 'grading' so the assumption is that the pattern has been perfected already (by toiles etc) and now it's being made into multiple sizes.
C

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Hi DannyJane,

The article isn't meant to be about CAD but about 'drafting' - whether traditionally or digitally it doesn't matter (I use CAD so I wanted to describe both means) - all pattern drafting gets you to a certain point and then it's toile toile toile to see how the garment fits the body - especially if you have scoliosis! CAD is done in exactly the same way as traditional drafting but on the screen using commands as your pencils, rulers etc. CAD can greatly enhance the process and speed things up but the theory is just the same. I think the article needs to be read from the pattern cutting perspective rather than focusing on the CAD side of things. Sorry if it was confusing.

Caroline

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jema
Hi DannyJane,
As Caroline points out, this particular article is about grading patterns - ie making a selection of standard sizes from one master pattern for commercial applications. However, If you'd like to learn more about using CAD programs to draw your own unique-to-you patterns that would include your asymmetry, we have a have several excellent articles just on using CAD in both FR and YWU in the "design" sections - you might also like to read Bernadette's article on asymmetry here in FR and watch the live-workshop on that topic also under the "replays" section of the site. CAD is not magic however, it is simply a drawing tool like pencil or paper - you still need to be the hand that guides it!

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dannyjane
Upon re-reading my comment I see that I was more abrupt than I intended to be. Please accept my sincerest apology.
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