Draft Your Corset Pattern
Written by Cathy HayArticle Index
Perfectly fitting patterns at last! Muhahaha!
One of the most frustrating challenges in corsetmaking is to get the darn thing to fit properly. Corsets are such unforgiving, tightly fitted garments that a good one must have a perfect fit; there's no room for error.
After getting frustrated with commerical patterns, you're probably starting to wonder how to draft (draw out) your own patterns from a list of measurements. Here's how, in a step-by-step format specially designed for complete beginners.
(You can also play with pattern drafting a basic bodice with our equally simple (and free) Easy Pattern Drafting tutorial at our sister site.)
After giving this method a try, I hope you will start to see the awesome designing and dressmaking power that drafting skills can give you. Taking your measurements and drawing out your own pattern can save a lot of money and a lot of time fiddling with fit.
I've devised these instructions for you based on corset designs of the late 1870s. You'll still need a mock-up to check, but you will be very surprised how well it fits. And furthermore, as you can tell from the photographs below of corsets made using this tutorial, it can easily adapted into a variety of styles.
- "chobap", Livejournal
Corsets made using this tutorial
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[Above left photo] This is the first corset I drafted for myself using the above tutorial; I've not used a commercial pattern since! Construction wise it's not great (I've learnt a few things since then) but I'm still pretty happy with the shape I managed to create. Thank you for inspiring me, and enabling me to get creative with corsetry! - Hannah Light, UK
[Above centre and right photographs] Both of these designs started as the FR tutorial... - Rachel Haggerty, Ivy Rose Custom Corsetry
However, I cannot access the printer-friendly version.
I too cannot access the print friendly version
thanks
madamenoire
just a heads up, on the bit where it first says about drafting for the larger bust, it says to turn to page 'XX', instead of the page number :-)
The pieces you end up with may overlap each other on the draft. When you've finished drafting, you'll just need to trace them onto a new piece of paper to cut them out. This is recommended in any case at the end of the tutorial - then, if you make any changes on your mock-up, you can transfer them back to the original draft and use it again.
Best wishes, Cathy
It's just a little worrisome that taking my actual side-seam-to-side-seam measurements in a shirt that fits me doesn't give me the same results as that calculation, but maybe that's on purpose?
Thanks much for any clarification. ;D
I downloaded it when it first came out, this is the kind of patterndrafting i was taught so i found it easy to follow.
I did botch it up the first go i had of course, then had to put it aside for other projects and couldnt find it.
Thank you again and as soon as I can I may be subscribing to your publication.:-)
Tracey, Becca, Michelle, thank you, I'm flattered that you're using this!
Tovah - good idea!
Crookedfingers, page 2 of the non-printer version says, "We'll begin as we did before, with a vertical line down the left hand side of the paper. Place it about 2" (5cm) from the edge. Mark point 1 on the line, 2" (5cm) from the top of the paper."
All commenters - please note that if you want a quick answer, do email me at: info at harmanhay dot com!
(1) is it necessary to bone the muslin mock-up?
(2) is this pattern generator one that will require a something to be worn underneath or does it cover all of the breasts?
Thanks!:-D
Secondly, it's a mid-bust - it'll just reach nipple level, as the 1870s corset did, although you're welcome to go a little higher or lower as fits your needs.
In bra size, I fluctuate between C and D depending on the design of the bra. Mostly the cup size depends on the shape of the wire; my breasts are not busty to look at but often cup C wires won't go around all the way.
How would this translate when wearing a corset, and which version of the pattern do you recommend I use? The C and below, or larger than C version?
Since corsets don't generally have cups, I would think that your issues with underwires won't translate; I wouldn't have thought that you'll have problems. The problem comes when you try to mass-produce a garment to fit every unique woman in a standardised set of sizes!
Me lo puedes enviar vía email? Gracias!!!
Heather, let us know your email address and we can send it to you by email.
The links that you put in the "drafft your own Corset" section,both doesn´t work,please send to me a work well link to my email quikcly.
Thanks soo much.
Natata.
Amber, look again at the last part of the tutorial, page 53. You need to trace the pattern pieces from the draft onto a new sheet of paper, add seam allowance and use these as your pattern.
Maria, the links work well, but you may need to use them at low-traffic times as they are big files. I have emailed the tutorial to you.
Andrea, the links work well, but you may need to use them at low-traffic times as they are big files. I can email the tutorial to you if you use the "contact us" link to provide your email address.
I hope that you someday show the derivations of the math for all of these calculations. As a very technical person, with a fair amount of experience in pattern making, I have been trying to back out the numbers you use on my own. Plus I was hoping that figuring this out would help me solve my "problem."
Still, this is the sort of article I joined Foundations Revealed for. I hope there will be articles on pattern making in the future.
It is simply the part of your hip measurement that goes from side seam to side seam around your behind. I mention it in determining the size of the paper just to ensure that you begin with a piece of paper that's big enough!
First of all, this *is* a Victorian design, so you're all set there. As for the pieces, just follow the instructions as written here and you'll end up with the pieces you need all mapped out. Thirdly, a "Sweetheart" design is simply a shape that gives a heart shape at the top front, over the bust. You can do that by completing the tutorial, making the mock-up (practice) corset, and drawing the shape you want on the top edge. Then just transfer those markings back to the paper pattern and begin cutting the final garment!
This pattern was the solution, and I cannot recommend it enough. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing this instructions.
I have one problem, my underbust measurement + 4" is more than my bust measurement the half front bust ends being less than the half back bust.
is there a ideal proportion or other form to get this measurement?
thanks for all
The top and bottom edges can be wherever you wish. As a guide I recommend using the waist-to-top and waist-to-bottom measurements that you took as a guide, and drawing smooth curves between those marks. As an extra tip, make the top on the high side and the bottom on the low side, and when you make you mock-up you'll be able to trim it to size.
Best wishes, Cathy
Your web is an extraordinary one. I enjoy it each time I read it. thanks very much
Thank you for giving the tutorial a try!
I want to get the instructions, how do I do?
Thanks
Maru
I'm not sure what you're stuck on, as the instructions are all in the article. If you get to the bottom of the page, just click 'next' and it should take you through, stage by stage. There are also links to some of the other key articles and bits of information you'll need.
If there's something specific you can't find or need advice on, please contact us at info@harmanhay.com and we'll do all we can to help.
Thanks,
Pollyanna (Harman Hay web mouse)
Hi Cathy, my name is Lars. I am making some corsets for my lovely partner who is in Ethiopia...we have only measurements to work with, so drafting seems to be the way to go.
Thank you for your tutorial. It is nicely done.
Once completed, I understood what is going on.
Some angles were not identical to it's mate, so I evened them up without changing the total measures at top and bottom, if that makes sense. Also I evened out panel size, to make them even at waist-line. Again, without changing the totals top & bottom.
My question: Do you see problems in doing this?
I wish to make an underbust. The pattern is 70mm over at the underbust line. I simply adjusted the pattern to be correct according to the underbust measurement, thus ignoring the Bust measure...this seems right to me. I guess I'd like to just make sure, if you will be my sounding board
Thank you kindly for your time and effort.
Sincerely yours
Lars
My question is probably so mundane for most but is there somewhere on the site that I can get instructions on how to create an overbust pattern from it?
Any help to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.....thank you
I'm on the step where you find point (a) using the back bust measurement times .22. My back bust is 18 in so that times .22 gives me 3.96. However when I go to mark it, it's less than an inch from point (P), my total distance from (M) to (P) is only 4.5 in and I am marking (a) by starting at (M) and measuring out towards (P). So I'm wondering, is that how it should be based on my measurements or do I halve the back bust measurement?
Thank you
I have admired and used your tutorials since the beginning of my corset making journey. I've recently started teaching classes and I have used Illustrator to make graphics similar to those you use in your tutorial. I am in awe! I am ready to give up after six - let alone however many you made for this tutorial. I have a new found admiration for the time you've put in to making these tutorials so clear and well illustrated. I've said it before, but I'll say it again - thank you!
Emma
laurie_wallick@ yahoo.com. Also, do you have a Facebook page?
Thanks,
Lorili Design, Inc.
I've added you to our mailing list.
Our Foundations Revealed Facebook page is at
http:// www.facebook.com/Foundations-Revealed-The-Corsetmakers-Companion-160554519117/
-Sharon
Harman Hay Publications
okay, I have a problem. Your drafting method was the first one I ever tried, and from recollection, it went great. I haven't used it for quite a while, but I"m making an overbust for my 34H cup daughter. And I am a tad confused about something.
I'll refer to K (Bust to waist) I know this is measure from the side Waist to the level of the bust measurement. That's all good. (I'll use an example measurement of 17cm)
Then we have the Apex to Waist, which is from 1 nipple to the Waist at the side front, over contours. (example measurement of 22)
My assumption is that the Apex is in line with the bust (ie the fullest part of the breast) So when inserting #8 (which is apex to waist @ 22cm) of course it comes higher than the full bust line. So I don't understand that one.
Second question in next message (I've run out of spaces!)
Am I as clear as mud?
Kelly
In answer to your first question, yes, 8 does come out higher than the K line when you're working with a large cup size. When the shape is in 3D, 8 and K are at the same level, but when you flatten that shape out into 2D, weird things happen. If you look again at the diagram on page 47, I have placed 8 higher than K. It's the purple line above the number 8.
9a and 9b come out lower than 8 because you're measuring with a tape measure along a curved line, rather than a straight one. Trust the process, it will come out right!
TLDR I'm worried that the finished corset will either look funny or provide pressure in funny areas in some way or another and thus be unsafe to wear.
I tried the pattern instruction and it helped me a lot in understanding corset structure. However I noticed something unexpected while I was validating my drawn corset pattern. To validate I was summing values on each level of corset (bust, waist, hips), here are my results:
BustLevelSum = 2*50%*FrontBust + 2*43%*BackBust = FrontBust + 86%*BackBust
ExpectedBustLev elSum = FrontBust + BackBust - 5cm
WaistLevelSum = 2*47%*DesiredWaist = 94%*DesiredWaist
ExpectedWaistLe velSum = DesiredWaist - 5cm
HipLevelSum = 2*50%*BackHip + 2*39%*FrontHip = BackHip + 78%*FrontHip
ExpectedHipLeve lSum = FrontHip + BackHip - 5cm
Of course I could made mistake in counting. Assuming that I counted and understood it correctly, sums are not consistent with body measurement. I don't understand why the pattern sums and expected sums are different. Maybe there is a kind of strategy under it..? Could you let me know why it is this way?
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