Nice article, Anya ! In fact, I thought of making one about this particular technique that I use a lot (this is a specialty of Luneville, the town of king Stanislas Leszczynski in France, near mine :-)) I recently had de try on a corset. I wanted to know if I can apply that on coutil, and the answer is YES, without any problem. You only need to master the hook to make the embrodery blind, because everything is made from under. In France, this technique is called Luneville Embrodery. And as you said, it is regurlarly used in Haute Couture. See Elie Saab, for example... Thank you for sharing this. you're result is quite beautifull !
Oh! I am pleased to know it works well on coutil - i would have been nervous to try as coutil is so tightly woven. Yes, Elie Saab's work is amazing... I have lot's of his designs on my Pinterest boards;)
I have just started to learn tambour beading this week - also using the Mastered website so am delighted to see your article - very encouraging! and your results are lovely. I have had problems with the hooks and holders and though I now have a holder with hooks which don't fall out or twist while working, I am waiting for the Lacis set to arrive as I think it will be better! I started off using synthetic organza and then tried on calico cotton which worked quite well, but I decided to use a beading thread - too thick kept splitting - lot of trial and error to start with I think! what size of hook did you use on the chiffon? Tried some beading - not bad for first attempt. I am wondering whether different sizes of hook and thread will work better with different fabrics. Planning to try some tulle next and see what happens with that.....Thank you for letting us see your work on this - your designs look beautiful.
I used the smallest hook that came in my Lacis set which is, if my eyes have correctly read the teeny tiny etching on the hook, a no. 70/10. I am sure there is a wealth of information on what size hook and thread to use for what application but I haven't learned that yet! If you are doing the mastered course then you will probably have good luck asking the other students in one of the forums, or asking your course tutor. Feel free to pass on any useful tips;)
To finish off threads, you need to pull the working thread up and pass the cut thread through the last loop - it is a slip knot. I then tend to take the tail through the last few stitches (on the back, which is the side you can see), slip-knotting it each time so that it would probably take a hurricane to dislodge the darned thing... The sight of all those lovely stitches disappearing when you accidentally lose the thread is heart-breaking! (Don't tell anyone, but I actually do the slipknot thing every now and then in a stitching line, just in case a line ever decides to work loose. At least, I think, I won't lose the lot. Lesage wouldn't approve, but hell, it's my work!!) Yup - I've done the over-tight work thing. So depressing!! But your work looks lovely - and has inspired me to get the hook out again! I can heartily recommend the workshops run by Caroline Homfray (UK) and by Prof Robert Haven (Kentucky). The latter is the most wonderful teacher - and a warm and funny man!
tambour evaded me for so long but I was determined to reproduce the tamboured wedding gown from Tiden museum which Bjarne Drews also reproduced. It was in fact Bjarne who inspired me to keep trying--getting the twist was the problem and no book could help with that--I just had to keep working at it and finally it came. Somewhere along the line I learned that I should lock the stitch at corners--I sometimes cheat by making a tiny stitch--which takes less time. I have also only done embroidery--not beading--so I get to enjoy my work as it progresses as this is done on the right side. I use the round tambour frame from Lacis. I now feel inspired to try beading. Thank you for a great article. Tambour is now my favourite form of embroidery--I find it mindless and relaxing--once the design is set up. Charlene Roberts
So fun! I love tambour :) I used the same style frame but I just machined a straight line on the tapes, and then did a big spiral stitch (every inch or so) with some strong quilting thread through the other edges all the way around the stretcher bars, and that worked well. its easy enough to remove and re-do if you're working on a big enough piece to have to roll it. Perhaps you have stretched it too well? It looks like it sort of shrunk upon removal. I think that's the hard part, not stretching it too far :) lovely work, and would love to see your sleeves when they are finished! :)