SIGN UP
Log in

How To Make a Latex Corset

icon freeFor me, latex corsets are a contradiction. The corset is made out of a fabric that is stretchy, not firm.  But I have discovered that I love it, even though I am breaking all my rules about corsetry.

 What is Latex?

Latex is made out of rubber. Rubber is made from the rubber tree, the Helvetica Brasilius. Out of the tree, liquid latex is extracted: this liquid latex is the base of latex sheeting. Through a chemical process, color is added. Latex cannot be sewn, you have to glue it with a special latex glue.

Latex is known for being shiny, but natural latex does not have any shine at all. For storage, latex has a fine talc powder finish on it. This is used to make sure that the latex sheeting will not get too sticky when being stored. In order to make it shine, you need to clean it up and add a latex shiner or lubricant.

 

How to Make a Seam in Latex

Latex seams are not like average seams. Instead of putting the right sides on each other and sewing on the wrong side, latex is glued right side to wrong side.

In order to make a seam, first you need to clean up the parts you want to glue.

In order to make a seam, first you need to clean up the parts you want to glue.

Then with a brush add about 1.5cm (5/8") of glue along the seamline on the right side of your first panel. Make sure that you do not use too much glue. The less the better, but make sure that the glue is evenly distributed.

Also add 1cm (3/8") of glue on the wrong side of your second panel. The glue works like a contact glue, so you need to add it to both sides of the seam.

Then with a brush add about 1,5 cm of glue allong the seamline on the right side of your first panel. Make sure that you do not use too much glue. The less the better, but make sure that the glue is evenly distributed.

Slowly place the seam of the second panel on the glued seam of the first panel. Make sure you let the latex touch only at the seamline and gently lay the second panel on the first. Do not pull the latex. Make sure you line the seamline up evenly, so that the overlap is exactly 1.5cm (5/8").

A curved seam works the same as a straight seam, except in order to make a curve you need to gently stretch the latex while gluing the seamlines together. Make sure you stretch both sides equally. This way you make sure that you will not get any bubbles or wrinkles.

There is no need to rush, as the contact glue does not dry that fast. Gently add pressure on the seams with your fingertips to push out any bubbles. Roll it out with a roller to get a smooth seam. A normal paint roller works just fine (and costs only €1/87p/$1.40!)

With black latex you might not notice differences in seam width that much, but if you start to use colors or transparent latex you will immediately see it when a seamline is not straight.

Now slowly put the seam of the second panel on the glued seam of the first panel. Make sure you let the latex touch only at the seamline and gently lay the second panel on the first.

 

Constructing the Corset

For the corset I will use two layers of 0.8mm (1/32") thick latex, so that it will be sturdy enough to hold the boning.

There is very thin latex available as well, which is great for ruffles and thin tops but not for corsetry.

For the corset I will use two layers of 0.8 mm thick latex, this is so it will be sturdy enough to hold the boning.

This corset is made with a basic four panel pattern. The front and the back will be cut on the fold, twelve pieces in total:

  • Two front panels on the fold
  • Four pieces each for the second and third panel
  • Two back panels on the fold.

 

I prefer to cut them one at a time. It is hard to cut two rubber pieces at once, as rubber tends to shift while you cut it (it reminds me of crushed velvet.)

The latex that I used had a right and wrong side, so make sure you flip over the pattern pieces to get the left and right side panels both with a shiny upper surface.

I will make this corset with a basic 4 panel pattern.

I prefer to cut the latex using a rolling blade and not a pair of scissors, so that I will have a smooth cut line on the outside. 

I prefer to cut the latex using a rolling blade and not a pair of scissors. So that I have a smooth cut line.

The Boning Channels

After cutting the panels, I make the boning channels. These are made from store-bought tubular boning tape. The boning in a latex corset will not be on the seamline but next to it, or in the middle of the panel. Before cutting the boning channels, I check where I want them on the pattern and make a channel that is 3cm (1 3/16") shorter than the panel it will be on.  For the center back boning and grommets, I make a strip 4cm (1¼") wide with two boning channels in it and leave room in the middle for the grommets.

After making the boning channels I rubberize them by applying glue to them so that I can glue them into the corset. After all, I cannot sew them in! The glue will leave a rubbery layer on the cotton, so that when you glue your channels into the corset, it will stick to the latex. Leave the boning channels to dry.

Boning channels, cut and rubberized Back lacing strips, cut and rubberized

 

 

Inserting the Busk

Draw a line at the middle of your center front panel.

For the studded side of the busk mark the place where the studs need to go trough the latex and make a tiny hole in the latex by pricking your awl through it.

Then stretch the latex over your busk, stretching up to the hole and pushing your stud through.

Draw a line at the middle of your center front panel. For the studded side of the busk mark the place where the studs need to go trough the latex and make a tiny hole in the latex by pricking your awl through it.

Then add glue to the latex on both sides of the busk, fold the latex over the busk and glue the pieces together. Make sure you apply enough pressure to make the glue stick.

Also make sure that there is no air within the busk-pocket. Latex is airtight, so any air within the corset will stay there!

Stretch the latex a little so that the busk will be smooth.

Then add glue to the latex on both sides of the busk, fold the latex over the busk and glue the pieces together. Make sure you apply enough pressure to make the glue stick.

 

 

Then add the first piece of boning, mark the place where you want the boning to be on the panel and apply the glue.

Then add the first piece of boning. Mark the place where you want the boning to be on the panel and apply the glue.

Gently lay the boning channel on the panel. Add glue round the boning channel.

Add glue to the other side of the panel aswell and gently lay down the panel, enclosing the boning in latex.

Roll over it with you roller to smooth out any air bubbles within the latex.

Gently lay the boning channel on the panel. Add glue round the boning channel. Add glue to the other side of the panel as well and gently lay down the panel enclosing the boning in latex. Roll over it with you roller to smooth out any air bubbles within the latex.

Now close the front panel by adding glue to the seamline on the inside of the folded panel. 

Now close the front panel by adding glue to the seamline on the inside of the folded panel.

Glue the wrong side of the second panel to the right side of the first panel, so that you have four layers on top of each other, the layers of the first panel sandwiched between the layers of the second panel.

Remember to stretch the seamlines on both panels to create a smooth seam.

 

Add a piece of boning on the second panel, close the second panel on the side and move on to the third panel, add a piece of boning to the panel and close the panel.

 

Glue the wrong side of the second panel to the right side of the first panel, so that you have 4 layers on top of each other, the layers of the first panel sandwiched between the layers of the second panel.

Mark the center of the center back with a marker and glue the back boning pieces on the center back side. I have put the back boning pieces in a piece of cotton, as mentioned above, so that they will not poke through the latex. The grommets will go through both the latex and the cotton, to make sure the back is strong enough for a little lacing.

Fold the center back so that the boning channels are enclosed by the latex. Apply pressure and get rid of any bubbles and wrinkles. Make sure there is no air in it!

To add the center back to your corset, you need to glue the wrong side of the back panel to the right side of the third panel. Start with the outside. Then do the inside.

 

Mark the center of the center back with a marker and glue the back boning pieces on the center backside.

Now glue the top and the bottom pieces together at the edges. Make sure that there is no air inside the corset!

In order to finish up the corset, glue a strip of latex to the top and the bottom of the corset. Add the grommets and you are done! When putting in the grommets, do not make the holes too big, and use two piece grommets, so that the rubber will be enclosed within the edge of the grommet. If not,  the grommet will pop out of the corset.

This was the very first latex corset I ever made, and I still need a lot of work on the neat seamlines, and with putting in the boning. As you can see I have used spiral steel boning, and it shows trough the latex. Perhaps flat steels are a better choice.

Finished corset: front Finished corset: back
   

 

Latex corsetry is not suitable for tightlacing at all. I have not yet found a way to add a waist tape without showing it through the latex, but it does make for an interesting item of clothing. I am not sure I can actually call it a corset though, it is so stretchy!

 

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Gravatar
liten_sak  
  This is exactly what I needed right now! I was already thinking about making my own but didnt really find any information about the difference (except the glueing) from normal corseting. Thank you!  
 
Gravatar
sparklewren  
  This is so amazing! And so different from regular corsetry. Great article Sannie, hope you'll write more :-)  
 
Gravatar
iriscostume  
  maybe one day when i "retire" i could have a go! ive seen some beautiful things done with latex, i know its not strictly corsetry, but id love to know the tricks.
and know i am a few steps closer to understanding how to put latex together.
love the shiny!
 
 
Gravatar
blackvelvet  
  Thank you girls!! :)  
 
Gravatar
goldaddict  
  I recently took a crash course in latex work and was curious about making a corset with boning. This article is exactly what I needed! Thank you!!!  
 
Gravatar
kittenpotato  
  What about setting grommets again? Have you ever used Grommet Panels with Boning Channels?

Also approximately how long did the entire corset take you to make?

Thanks
 
 
blackvelvet  
  I am not sure if I understand your questions.
The back panels have got gommets and boning channels. I always use a bone on each side of the grommets. I did make the boning channels out of fabric and covered it in latex to make sure that is stays strong.

The corset took me a couple of days to make, spread out over several weeks. It was the first time that I made a latex corset, and I tried several construction methodes and wrote about the one that worked best for me.
 
 
Gravatar
plumetis  
  Bravo!
C'est très intéressant.
 
 
Gravatar
likeloislaine  
  I'm so glad this tutorial is here, and I could use it. I made a nice overbust using the methods in this write up. Thank you ladies so much for all your hard work and research!!  
 
Hide comment form

1000 Characters left


Related Articles

Save

Save