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Stretch Velvet in Corsetry

icon-smSandra Stuart shares what she's learned about how to use stretch velvet in corsetry. She discovers that it has its advantages, as well as its own special challenges - and it looks stunning!

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bookwyrm  
  I remember that red corset from Corsetmakers! Fantastic article, thank you.  
 
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plumetis  
  Haughtiness tutoriel!
Thank you;-)
 
 
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aitchlight  
  Such stunning results! This is a brilliant article, just shows you should never close your mind to fabric possibilities and corsetry.

I picked up a handy tip for slidy fabrics that shift as you sew; you can get double pronged pins (I think they are for quilting) that really help keep the fabrics together. I usually baste, then use the double pins and very, very carefully sew over them.

Thank you for writing such a thorough and inspiring article.
 
 
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bestinterests  
  Great article! I am inspired!  
 
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alexafaie  
  Very useful read as I found some really pretty stretch velvet in the remnants bin in the fabric shop in town. So now I know how to use it! :)  
 
s_stuart  
  Such kind comments, thankyou - I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Nice to hear that some of you have been inspired to make cozy velvet corsets of your own.

I'll have to look out for and try those 2-pronged pins (oh, the temptation of new tools that make life easier..)
 
 
vintagelynndyloo  
  Fantastic article, well written & well illustrated with clear photographs. Thank you! I recently made a full tailored suit in silk velvet for a film project & found that using strips of tracing paper between the seams about an inch wide, stops the fabric shifting. You then only need to pin & stitch & simply tear the strips away once you've stitched the seam. You've now inspired me to try a silk velvet corset!  
 
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s_stuart  
  Silk velvet would make a gorgeous corset! It wouldn't have the stretchy properties mentioned here, but that's a mixed blessing/curse.

Very interesting about the tracing paper strips; so I assume that it helped when sewing velvet pieces together face-to-face, but did you also use it when sewing velvet to other types of fabric (a lining, for instance)?
 
 
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zyurelaie  
  Absolutely amazing. Will try this incredible combination of visual and texture appeal. I notice in the blue variant your still fighting with drags (mentioned in these forums as ripples but we tailors call them drags) have you tried experimenting with anything special to eliminate them such as adhering them to the strength layer with fixatif?  
 
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s_stuart  
  I'm interested in trying a single-layer velvet corset, made of coutil panels with velvet adhered directly to their surfaces. The challenge there might arise from attempting to keep the seams neat, and to keep extra bulk/thickness to a minimum.

There are so many different methods to explore when wrangling this fabric; I love all the responses, ideas, and further solutions proposed here in the comments! If anyone has any other tricks for success with this fabric, please share!
 
 
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zyurelaie  
  A possibility I think would be another way to look at this stretch factor in the fabric is to use it like a shell. If you were to take apart a suit coat you would find what is called iron work (actually iron work is what you do to the outer shell but its all part of the process). Basically there are different types of fabric that are cut, shaped, layered and otherwise manipulated in order to provide shape and structure where you would not be able to place a seam. The fabric that you see is actually just a shell that has been draped and moulded to this disaster of fabric panels, stuffing and basting. (I tried to add an image but it didn't play nice I will add later in a separate comment.) This fabric has some incredible warp and weft, why not use it to hide seams and create a unique look. You can avoid drags by using an adhesive after the fact to the coutil. I did the same thing to my wedding dress but I worked the outer shell fabric with the iron to stretch it because it didn't stretch  
 
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zyurelaie  
  [img:error]  
 
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zyurelaie  
  cwap!
here's a link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/zyurelaie/6617164835/
and here's my wedding dress, yes we managed a six panelled fully boned corset in there somewhere but there's only two shell panels.
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/siedentopf-wedding-dress
ick... that dress was a learning experience for us. we put that thing together in three days with 181$
 
 
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