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HomeIndex of ArticlesLingerieVintage & 20th CenturyCreating a Teens Strapless Brassiere

Creating a Teens Strapless Brassiere

finished-iconAs fashion changed in the early C20th, so did underwear. Kelly guides us through the making of a teens brassiere, or corset cover, to go under an evening gown.

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galadriel  
  This is absolutely wonderful, I am a tad obssessed with bust improvers at the moment so I am so greatful to you for sharing this :)

Very beautiful!
 
 
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deuxlunes  
  Congratulations on a great piece. I have been meaning to experiment with some bralets like this. As for the "bubbling" issue with the lace after wearing, have you considered lining with silk organza. It would maintain the sheerness although I am not sure about the comfort of it against the skin. Another possibility would be a fine denier tricot. Good luck.  
 
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kcercone  
  Thank you!
I think it's actually possible to make one without any backing at all: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O140877/bust-improver-dickins-jones/ Two of the all lace brasseries I found did not seem to have any backing, or at least not one that survived for pictures.

Silk organza is definitely a possibility, the only downside I could see is that it might be minutely warmer than an open mesh. I suppose also depending on the quality of the silk organza vs. something else, the silk could potentially wear out first because of age/shattering. For myself at least, I always plan to wear it over a chemise so against the skin comfort shouldn't be an issue. While I was fabric shopping I did look at some tricots, but unfortunately a lot of them too closely resembled sport mesh, or were similar in hand to the mesh I already had in my stash. I would love to find some of that magical stiff tricot Victoria's Secret uses to line their lace bras!
 
 
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alexafaie  
  This looks absolutely wonderful! And goes splendidly with the corset you had previously made.
I was wondering if you could give any advice about how to create a pattern like this one from measurements instead of a dress form. I was thinking of giving this a go, but don't own a dress form to drape on and its for someone else whose bust is very different in size to my own!
Thanks!
 
 
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kcercone  
  Thank you, I am glad you like them :)

Do you have access to your friend for fittings? If she is patent It might be possible to drape a crude pattern on her while she is wearing a corset, then draw the tapes placement on that and refine for a second fitting.

Otherwise I would say measure her underbust, bust and about 1" above her nipple while she is wearing her corset. If you have a sloper or moulage pattern, you could alter it to the measurements. To help get the slightly flattened silhouette right on the first try, you may want to subtract some of the bust measurement from the front (nipple hight) only. This makes the seam less curved and pushes up the bust.
 
 
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alexafaie  
  Thanks for your reply!!
The model its being made for lives in America and I'm in England, so fittings are out of the question sadly. I wish it wasn't!
I do however have her measurements to work to so could have a go at making a sloper or seeing if I can find one for free online to alter as I only have her measurements relevant to making a corset and don't know how they'd differ from those used for a sloper. The corset I'm making to go with it will be my first self-drafted pattern aside from a pair of bloomers I made following instructions! So I'm a little inexperienced and didn't even know what a sloper was without google!
Alternatively, I could try making a pattern for myself and then sizing down?
 
 
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alexafaie  
  Just decided to have a go at something else - I zoomed in on the photo you took of the pattern, traced it off the screen and then cut out the paper & stuck it together. At the zoom level I drew from, it fits me pretty well. It will need some adjustments still, but it gives a good overall guideline to work to.
I can make a rough mock up for myself, true it, then size down from the fixed pattern.
Yay for computer cheats! lol
 
 
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kcercone  
  Quote :
I zoomed in on the photo you took of the pattern, traced it off the screen and then cut out the paper & stuck it together.


That is a brilliant Idea! I hope you are making good progress with the fitting/re-sizing on yourself. Since it's long distance, perhaps the model has a friend who could help her fit a mock-up? Another alternative might be to make two elastic panels on the sides Instead of the back so the fit is more adjustable.
 
 
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madamenoire  
  Am a too rare visitor to this great site but wish to thank you Iam now making vintage style lingerie to sell but I dont sell corsetry although I love it.could you tell me how to find or make a dressform that has a shape like your dummy,thanks again jane  
 
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kcercone  
  The dress form I used for the drape was a uniquely You from. It's a foam form covered with a fabric sheath that was fitted to me to make the foam roughly my body shape.

You can buy them at a few locations online: https://www.google.com/search?q=uniquely you&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#gs_rn=18&gs_ri=psy-ab&tok=2F_aliYN50tZH6p eCaEXaw&pq=uniquely you&cp=15&gs_id=b7&xhr=t&q=uniquely you dress form&es_nrs=true&pf=p&client=firefox-a&hs=mKf&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sclient=psy-ab&oq=uniquely you dr&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48572450,d.cGE&fp=2fae72860b8c04c b&biw=1201&bih=634
 
 
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