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Bombus - Alisha Martin  Bombus - Alisha Martin

Bombus - Alisha Martin  Bombus - Alisha Martin


Alisha Martin, Kentucky, USA (The Bad Button Bespoke Corsets)


The Design

Buzz buzz buzz…. What’s the first insect that comes to your mind? In my case, it’s always bees. Whether they are the hard-working honey bee, the tiny little sweat bee, or my favorite stumbling, fumbling, jumbling, bumbling bee, I always hear the gentle drone of wings and smile.

As a beekeeper, this year’s theme thrilled me, and I immediately knew the insect that I would use as inspiration. Spiders spin their ephemeral webs, and jewel wasps look pretty enough to wear on a necklace, but my love will always be for the little velvet tennis balls belonging to the genus Bombus.

What I especially love about bumblebees is that they are gentle bugs. Unlike their honeybee cousins, they do not have barbed stingers, so they can sting many times without dying – defense doesn’t have to mean death. However, even with this adaptation, they still choose only to sting when their nest is disturbed, and rarely act aggressively toward other animals. While everyone is currently on a mission to “Save the Bees!”, so many are also willing to swat them away the moment a fuzzy flier comes near. So many focus on the honey bee population, when it’s the other species that have seen the largest decline – to include the bee many Americans grew up with - Bombus pensylvanicus.

Even though I have several hives of honeybees, my first love will always be the sweet bumble who visits the catnip planted by the door.

Being so inspired by these downy denizens of the air, I knew I had to create an ensemble that mimicked the surprising grace that an insect known for bumbling actually carries. The hairs of her body would have to be polished and her wings would need to catch the eye. Yet I didn’t want this look to scream “I’m a bug.” Instead, I chose to create Bombus in a way that is subtle and surprisingly satisfactory when it comes to sounds – much like the bees themselves. Sadly, the sound isn’t something I can truly share unless it’s in person. The noise the Bombus makes is rather soft and soothing, and hopefully something a bee would appreciate.


The Construction

As an artist, I’ve often struggled to define my brand aesthetic, largely because I’m so willing to take on custom work that is within the realm of my preferences, but not fully my own. This process of creating Bombus made me focus on what my design preference is: mainly mono- or dichromatic pieces with an emphasis on time consuming embellishment techniques.

Looking at Bombus, she’s not the most “out there” design as far as insects go. She’s fairly simple at first glance, but from a technical standpoint, really quite involved. The base corset is a fully cupped corset, constructed with doubled boning, underwires and light padding in the cups. Considering that the bust area is completely covered by beadwork it wasn’t necessary, but I think that gives a much more pleasing shape to the chest. The things that really frustrated me, though, were the materials.

The floating fashion layer is made of two colors of silk velvet – a material that loves to unravel and slide about while sewing. As someone who rarely ever pins, I found myself pinning every seam. At one point, however, I did resort to draping and hand finessing the yellow velvet under the beadwork. And what beadwork!

While I juggled other projects, the beading took almost a full month. The sheer number of beads I ended up requiring had me making multiple orders! All told, there are over 12,000 beads making up the “hairs” on Bombus, consisting of alternating combinations of black and gold seed and inch long bugle beads.

Finally, the finishing touch was to give Bombus wings of a sort. Rather than stiff organza, I opted for soft, unstructured silk gauze. With a beautifully smooth hand, it flows behind as you walk, giving a further sense of movement and flight. But, this sense wasn’t enough to truly suggest wings, and required more definition. To give it that little extra push, I scaled up bumblebee wings to a size that would support a much taller animal, and couched gold embroidery floss on the silk. It’s an understated pop of brightness to what would be more gossamer veining, but the look flows with the rest of the ensemble. 


What was it like to compete this year? What would you say to someone who is on the fence about entering next year?

As a maker who has never quite managed to enter before, it was pleasant to be able to use this project as an excuse to do an ensemble strictly for me. Even though this is being used for my own business's couture collection, it was made with the competition and only me in mind, and it's pretty refreshing to do so!

Claire Green
I actually thought this was a furry fabric until I read that its all beading! WOW!! Excellent work!
Nice bead work.
Your beading is amazing! I really enjoy the different textures of your black and yellow sections on the corset.
Amazing beading work!
Desperately tactile, I can almost hear you buzzing, attaching the wings to the collar is very clever too
Wow, amazing beadwork!!!
Bertha Huey
I'm blown away by this, you must have a serious amount of patience for all that beading.
marloes dadswell
Hats off to you for all that wonderful beadwork! That must have taken a long time but the effect is sensational!
I love this so much!! The wings are so stunning. I grew up in the desert with the big black bumblebees on cactus flowers and yarrow, and so this story warmed my heart! I love your take on it and your dedication to a technique (fab bead work!)
A fitting ode to the Bombus! 12,000 beads - big respect for completing such a beautiful and time-consuming project - I love it.
My biggest respect for the fantastic beadwork as well! Such a beautiful effect!
And I also really like how you have interpreted the wings and attached them to the neckpiece. Such a lovely contrast of structured and soft, floating materials!

Outstanding! Of course everybody had lovely entries, but I’m just going to say, straight up, that yours is my personal favorite! I love bumble bees, so there’s that. Your interpretation of the bumble bee ‘fur’ with that jaw-dropping bead work is spectacular! I would love to touch it. And to hear it when moving! It must make a sort of buzzing rumble. I can’t quite wrap my head around the effort it took to do the beading! I also love the extremely fragile-looking silk gauze wings with their beautiful gold embroidered veins. Just a gorgeous job all around! Congratulations on a job very well done!
Alisha, yours is a very stylish interpretation of the theme, but I love best of all the fact that when I saw the video and read what you'd written I had to go back and look again at the photos.... Whaaaaa? That's BEADWORK? Whoa!! I love it when you're rewarded the closer you look! Fantastic, thank you for entering this amazing piece!
I thought at first that it was the fabric you had found that had that effect then I see that it is beadwork..wowee! You have created a lovely shape to the corset too lovely design.
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